d95
LG Dryer d95 Error (Flow Sense)
LG's Flow Sense system measures how freely air moves through the exhaust. The number is the blockage it estimates: d80 means roughly 80% blocked, d90 about 90%, and d95 — the most severe — means the vent path is about 95% choked off. The dryer cuts heat and stops because pushing hot air into a blocked vent is a fire risk.
Also displayed as: d80, d90 — the Flow Sense family · Moderate — vent work · 45–90 minutes
The short version: d95 is almost never the dryer's fault. It is telling you the truth about your vent duct: lint has narrowed it, it's crushed behind the machine, or the outside hood is plugged. Fix the vent and the code goes away — and so does the fire risk the code exists to prevent.
STEP 1 Likely causes, in order
Work down this list — it runs from the most common and cheapest to fix, to the least common and most involved.
- Lint-clogged vent ductLint slips past every filter, a little each load, and coats the inside of the duct — fastest at elbows, sagging flex hose, and anywhere the run is long.
- Crushed or kinked duct behind the dryerThe dryer gets pushed back for cleaning or a repair and the flexible duct folds flat. Airflow through a flattened section drops to nearly nothing.
- Blocked outside vent hoodLint mats over the flap or screen; in winter, snow drifts and ice seal it shut. The dryer then exhausts into its own wall.
- A vent run that's too long or has too many turnsEvery elbow costs airflow. A long run with several turns can trip Flow Sense even when it's perfectly clean — the duct was marginal from the day it was installed.
- A clogged lint filter or filter housingA filter coated in dryer-sheet residue traps air at the very first step. Water should bead and roll off a clean filter — if it pools, the filter is glazed.
STEP 2 The safe checks
Power off and water off wherever a step says so. Nothing here opens the machine's cabinet, touches a gas line, or defeats a safety device.
- Stop the dryer and clean the lint filter properlyPull the filter, peel the lint, then wash the screen with warm soapy water and a soft brush if it feels waxy. Let it dry completely before the next load.
- Pull the dryer out and inspect the duct connectionLook behind the machine: the duct should arc gently, never fold flat or pinch between the dryer and the wall. Replace crushed flex sections — foil flex that has collapsed rarely recovers.
- Disconnect the duct and vacuum it outWith the dryer unplugged, detach the duct at the back, and vacuum from both ends. A proper vent brush kit on a drill clears long runs far better than a vacuum alone.
- Check the outside hood with the dryer runningGo outside during a heated cycle: the flap should lift fully and you should feel a strong, warm stream of air on your hand. A weak trickle with a clean duct means the blockage is still in the wall run. Clear snow and ice away from the hood.
- Run a test load of towelsWith everything reconnected, dry a load of bath towels on a timed cycle. If d95 stays away and the towels dry in a normal time, airflow is restored.
Stop here and call a professional if…
- Any burning smell, at any point, from the dryer or the vent. Stop the machine, unplug it, and don't run it again until the vent and the dryer's interior have been inspected — lint fires start exactly this way.
- d95 returns immediately with a short, clean, straight duct. At that point the problem may be the blower or the sensor itself, inside the machine.
- The vent terminates somewhere wrong — into an attic, a wall cavity, or a garage. Correcting the vent route is a job in itself, and a gas dryer's exhaust must never be run disconnected or vented indoors, even 'just to test'.